We made buying tiles easy for you, now it’s time to teach you how to install them. Welcome to the ultimate destination of tiling tutorials; find the best text based guides for all your tiling works from laying the tiles to grouting and giving finishing touches. Know how to lay tiles, how to fill grouts, how to apply sealing and all the stuffs you can imagine.
How to Lay Tile on the Floor
- Cutting tool
- Utility knife
Before You Begin:
Once you have all the tools and materials you need, you need to start planning the layout of your design.
First, find the centre of the room by measuring the length of one wall and divide that in half. THen just measure the opposite wall and divide that in half. Put a line on the floor connecting the two center points.
Begin by dry laying. This is when you place the tiles on the floor with no adhesive on them. This allows you to plan a layout. Include spacers in this.
Avoid silver suits. These are cuts of tiles which are less than half of a tile. If you end up with a silver cut then shift the layout.
Now you know the layout, you need to plan out the order you are going to tile around the room. The aim is to finish by a door, to avoid getting tiled in.
Whatever adhesive you choose to use, make sure you read the instructions thoroughly on the packaging.
Step by Step:
Step 1: From the beginning position you marked out previously when you dry lay, use a gauging trowel to place tile adhesive on the floor. Use a notched trowel to spread it across an area of around 1m². Then use the smooth side to spread the tile adhesive on the floor; then draw the serrated edge back through to form ridges. You should be left with an even depth of adhesive, this is important as it leads to a level surface.
Step 2: Place the first tile firmly into the adhesive; it helps to use a twisting motion to allow the tile to really bed into the adhesive. Repeat this process with the next tile and use the tile spacers to make sure the tiles are evenly spaced. Make sure the tile spacers are pushed well into the adhesive, below the surface of the tile. So they are hidden when you come to grout it later.
Step 3: Continue with this, regularly checked that the tiles are flat with a spirit level. If they aren’t, just tap them with a rubber mallet to adjust them. Remove any adhesive from the tile face with a damp cloth as you go, as this is much harder to remove when it sets.
Step 4: Once all the tiles are down and positioned correctly, you need to wait until the adhesive is dry. This can take up to 48 hours.
Step 5: When the adhesive has set, you can start the grouting process. First make sure you remove any dust or debris from the whole surface, and check that all of your tile spacers are flat and not sticking up.
Step 6: Reading the instructions on the packaging, mix your grout into an appropriate consistency. Using a gauging trowel, remove the grout from the tub and then work it into the joints using the grout float until the grout is level with the surface of the tile. Make sure it covers the spacers.
Step 7: Once you’ve grouted a few rows, smooth the joints using a grout finisher to compact the grout and make sure it leaves a neat finish. Wipe any excess grout on the surface of the tile using a damp sponge.
Step 8: Continue around the room; grouting, finishing and wiping as you go. Once this is all finished, avoid walking on the floor and leave the grout to set.
Step 9: Once everything is set, give the floor another wipe with a damp cloth then with a dry one remove any excess grout from the tile.
Step 10: seal around the edges with a flexible sealant that matches the colour of the grout. This helps to accommodate for any movement between the wall and floor. Make sure to work from one end of the skirting board to the other. Applying a continuous line of sealant.
Step 11: Avoid using the floor for around 24 hours to allow everything to set fully.
How to Lay Tile on the Wall
Tools and Equipment:
- Wall Tiles
- Filler – if you have any holes in the wall that need filling. If the hole in the wall is larger than the size of your fist, we recommend getting a professional to make the repair.
- Tile adhesive
- Tile spacers
- Sanitary sealant
- Multi-purpose cloths
- Tape measure
- pencil or felt-tip pen – if required, to mark tiles for cutting
- Notched trowel (also known as a notched spreader)
- Grout spreader (also known as a grout float)
- Grout finisher (also known as a grout shaper)
- Claw hammer
- Spirit level
- Sealant smoother
Before You Begin:
Plan your tiling by dry laying. You need to make sure you have enough tiles and enough adhesive to cover the area. Plan out the position of the tiles so you can tile more effectively.
Step by Step:
Step 1: Put some tile adhesive on the trowel and press into the wall; we suggest starting from the corner. Then spread it with a notched trowel (around 1m²), working away from the corner horizontally. Hold the edge of the notched trowel at a 45 degree angle. The ridges formed in the adhesive will ensure there’s an equal amount behind each tile.
Step 2: PLace your first tile into the corner. Make sure to press the edges and make sure the whole tile is against the wall firmly. Then add a tile above it and one next to the original. Adding tile spacers as you go. Wipe off any extra adhesive that is on the tiles with a damp cloth, as it is a lot harder to remove when dry.
Step 3: With the tile spacers, make sure they are pushed in firmly and under the tile level.
Step 4: Keep on applying the tile this way until you have covered the 1m² area of adhesive. Check the tile placements and the spacers. Then add another square metre of adhesives and tiles. Until the whole space is covered.
Step 5: Add another tile above the last one you applied, and another beside it. Continue applying the whole tiles in this way until you’ve tiled the area covered with tile adhesive.
Apply another square metre of adhesive and tiles until you have fixed all the whole tiles.
Step 6: Once you have left this to dry, you can apply the grout. Starting in the bottom left corner, press a small amount of grout onto the tile face. Using a grout spreader, make long diagonal strokes, working it into the joints between the tiles.
Step 7: Continue this until you have grouted all the joints. Do this as quickly as possible as you need to. Then you need to go over the tiles with a damp cloth to remove the grout on the faces. Make sure not to drag grout from the joints onto the faces.
Step 8: Leave the grout to dry. Then it’s time to add sealant.
Step 9: Run a continuous line of sealant, working from one end of the tiled area to the other, from left, to right. Keep a steady speed and pressure. And smooth any irregularities with a sealant smoother. Then leave to dry.
How to Grout
- Mixing paddle
- Clean mixing bucket
- Grouting float
- Bucket trowel
- Grouting sponge
- Tile polishing cloth
- Wash kit e.g. grout clean up pads
Before You Begin:
Before beginning to grout you will need to check for any risk of staining on the tile. This is done by applying some grout on an offcut or left over bit of tile and wiping it off. If a stain is left then you may need to purchase a protective sealer.
Check that all the grout lines are clean and free of dust or debris. Whilst you do this make sure the adhesive you applied is dry.
The tile spacers can be either pushed in further to the adhesive bed, or they can be completely removed in order to apply the grout smoothly.
When mixing your grout, add the powder into the water in your mixing bucket and not the other way around, this will help reduce lumps.
Always read the instructions on the grout p[ackage for mixing steps, as different grot needs different amounts of water. And mix small amounts regularly to avoid the mixture hardening over time.
It’s important to mix at a slow speed and until you reach a smooth, lump free consistency. If you over mix you may trap air into the mixture which will cause problems later on. Allow the mixture to stand once mixed for a few minutes, then remix slowly for 30 seconds after.
Step by Step:
Step 1: Hold the grout float at 45° angle, applying enough grout mixture to completely fill the joints in the first m² area. Smooth it using diagonal strokes over the tile surface. If a line in the grout appears, this means you haven’t pushed enough grout into the joint. Just apply some more and repeat the process.
Step 2: Once you’re happy, remove the excess grout from the tile surface with your float, and move onto the next area. Allow the grout to air dry for 15 minutes, then, with a dampened sponge, clean the surface of the grout. Make sure to be cleaning your sponge frequently.
Step 3: Try not to over wash the grout joints as this will take the pigment out. If you have over washed the grout, white spots will appear. To fix this, Sand down the top layer once the grout is fully dry and reapply.
Step 4: The grout should take around 24 hours to dry fully. If it is a shower room or bath, do not use the area for 2 weeks as this could cause water fermentation into the grout, which will damage the grout and could lead to cracking.